Bike Trips: Summary
Miles Travelled: 8,200
Travel Days: 180
Years in Which I Have Taken a Bike Trip: 12
After My First Trip, Flat Tires That Needed Fixing: 2
Major Rivers Crossed: 11 (Arkansas, Colorado, Delaware, Green, Hudson, Mississippi, Platte, Red, Rio Grande, Snake, Susquehanna)
Places Visited en route: 27 states, 3 foreign countries
1986: Slidell, LA to Rapid City, SD
1988: Albuquerque, NM to Las Vegas, NV
1989: Vicksburg, MS to Memphis, TN
1990 & 1991: New York's Finger Lakes, South-Central Illinois
1992: Fargo, ND to Decatur, IL
1996: Alaska Loop
2000: Geneva, Switzerland to Narbonne, France
2004: Queenstown, NZ to Napier, NZ
2008: Loop around the Big Island, HI
2012: Boise, ID to Boulder, CO
2016: Baltimore, MD to Burlington, VT
Trip 1: My first trip was from my house in Slidell, Louisiana (just
north of New Orleans) to Rapid City, South Dakota, from May 1 to May 31,
1986. The travelling distance was roughly 1600 miles. En route, I
travelled through Vicksburg, Mississippi; Little Rock and Ft. Smith,
Arkansas; Tulsa, Oklahoma; Wichita, Kansas; Kearney and North Platte,
Nebraska; and the Black Hills. I had done very little travelling at all,
prior to this trip, so almost all of the terrain was new. I also had no
experience bicycle touring. The furthest I'd biked prior to the trip was
probably about thirty miles, so I had a lot to learn in that dimension as
well. My bike was a heavy steel non-brand bicycle with K-mart tires, a
K-mart rack (which, actually, I still use), and a K-mart pump. I
carried my gear in a backpack (which I continued to do until my
The terrain was quite hilly much of the way, particularly in parts of
Kansas and Nebraska, and in the Black Hills, of course. Furthermore, we
fought a fierce headwind through much of Kansas and the Nebraska
Sandhills, so physically, this was a very rigorous trip. A friend,
Steve, joined me for the last two weeks of the trip, from Wichita through to
Rapid City. This was the most rigorous part, physically, and he hasn't
asked to join me since!
I found every day exciting, since I'd never seen this part of the country
before, but the highlights were: the Black Hills, particularly Custer
State Park, which had free roaming bison herds and wonderful geology; the
Nebraska Sandhills and Pine Ridge country, in northwest Nebraska; the area
around Tenkiller Dam, in northeast Oklahoma; and Wichita, where I spent a
couple of days. I had to travel 125 miles the day I reached Wichita, my
longest day ever, because I had misjudged how far away it was. I
never made that mistake again.
Trip 2: My next trip was two years later, in July/August 1988, from
Albuquerque, New Mexico to Las Vegas, Nevada. The travelling distance was
roughly 1000 miles; I was gone three weeks. My route took me through
Aztec Ruins National Monument, New Mexico; Mesa Verde National Park,
Colorado; Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah; and Capitol Reef, Bryce
Canyon, and Zion National Parks, Utah. This trip required much more
careful preparation, because the route travelled long distances through
desolate, mountainous/hilly terrain in very warm weather. But the rewards
were plentiful, as the scenery was spectactular. Each of the national
parks/monuments were thrilling in their own way, and I allocated
plenty of time to spend at them.
This area of the country contains mountains, gently sloping plateaus, and
canyons, of course, where major rivers flow. All three made the terrain
very hilly--the canyons most of all, because the descents and ascents
would be so steep. While on plateaus, I would travel thirty miles or
more at a mild but steady incline or decline. This, and the heat, made
the trip the most physically demanding of all my bicycling tours. At
least rain wasn't a factor--though I was rained on (very lightly) every day
for the first two weeks of my trip! My body got so finicky during
the trip that I couldn't eat many processed foods--like, say, potato
chips--for weeks afterwards.
Highlights: The bike ride through Zion, downhill, was incredible, as were
my hikes at Natural Bridges and Bryce. I also visited Hoover Dam and took
a cruise on Lake Mead. The most unusual event was my stay at Capitol Reef
National Park. I had simply forgotten to buy enough food at the last town
before the park--I didn't realize it was the last town at the time--and I
found I had only about one-third of the food I would normally need for a
three day stay (and the nearest store about 25 miles away). I lived
primarily off eating apples and apricots from the fruit trees they
maintain in the park, but I was still hungry much of the time.
Trip 3:My father Lloyd was interested, by now, in taking a tour
with me, and so for 10 days in March/April, 1989, we travelled 300 miles
from Vicksburg, Mississippi, to Memphis, Tennessee. We travelled in the
Delta Country, that is, in the Mississippi Delta. It is a rural area,
one of the poorest in the country, but also one of the prettiest in the
South. It made for good touring because we could plan a route with very
low traffic, few hills, frequent access to services, and nice camping along
the Mississippi or one of its ox-bow lakes.
Highlights of this trip included: being able to tell my father what to do
(just kidding), visiting the Vicksburg Battlefield at the start of the
trip, and a close--and prolonged--encounter with a bull and his harem on a
desolate road. We had a couple of eventful moments, as well. While
speeding along behind a brisk wind, my father lost control and fell hard,
giving himself a mild concussion. (He was wearing a helmet, of course.)
But his memory returned after a couple of hours, and we rode on. He
completed his longest ride that day--55 miles. Also, after leaving
Vicksburg, we followed some bad advice and traveled a dead-end road about
ten miles into the boonies. Fortunately, rather than turn around, we
found a man in a boat who carried us across the intervening river and let
us off by a road on the other side, from which we continued our journey.
It was one of the prettier rivers I've ever been on.
Trips 4 and 5: My wife, Marsie, and I took two short, 150 mile, 4
day bicycle trips in the summers of 1990 and 1991. The first travelled
through south-central Illinois; a loop through Chester, DuQuoin, and
Carbondale. For me, the highlight of that trip was seeing one of those
giant strip mining (coal) steam shovels. The second travelled through
upstate New York, by the finger lakes. There we traversed a loop from
Ithaca to Auburn and back, circumscribing Lake Cayuga and Owasco. There
were no thrilling moments but the scenery was great throughout. That
was the last bike trip Marsie and I will take together for a while,
now that we have two children.
Trip 6: The next summer, July 1992, I flew to Fargo, North Dakota
and biked 950 miles in 13 days to Decatur, Illinois, where Marsie was
visiting her sister. My route took me along the Red River until
Pipestone, Minnesota; then through central Iowa, just south of Cedar
Falls, and across the Mississippi River at Muscatine. I avoided all the
major cities, and travelled almost exclusively on county, farm-to-market
style roads, so I had very little traffic. I had strong tailwinds much
of the way through Minnesota and Illinois, and light hills much of the
way as well. So, while the scenery was often unremarkable (lots of corn,
soybeans, and pig farms), I had the joy of easy, unharried cycling, the
freedom of the road. Highlights included: The Herbert Hoover National
Historical Site, where you could learn all about the former engineer, WWI
relief worker, Secretary of Commerce, and President; Pipestone National
Monument; and Kenney (?), Illinois, a quasi-ghost town whose downtown is
Trip 7: This was my trip to Alaska, detailed in other links on
this home page, August 1996. I was gone three weeks, and travelled 900
miles, from Anchorage to Denali Park, Fairbanks, Valdez, Seward (via ferry),
and back to Anchorage.
Trip 8: This was my trip through France, July 2000. I took fifteen
days, and travelled about 700 miles in a giant semicircle through central and
southern France. I left from Geneva (far western Switzerland), went north
and west through the Jura mountains into southern Burgundy, turning more
directly west, and then south west, across the Saone and Loire rivers into
the Massif Central. Then I headed more or less south, straight through the
Massif, to Languedoc province, to the city of Carcassone, and then east to
Narbonne on the Mediterranean. From there, I took the train back to
Geneva and flew home. It was, at the time, my shortest major trip but the
hilliest. For the most part, they never quit.
No, they do not all speak English in France, especially in the rural areas,
so yes, I spoke French to get around, and to have conversations with the locals.
I prepared by reading L'Estranger (The Stranger) in the original French and
studying a French dictionary like mad. Sounds crazy, but it worked!
Trip 9: This was my trip through New Zealand, May 2004. I took seventeen
days, with a day or two additional on each end to gear up and wind down, and
travelled about 650 miles from Queenstown, at the southern end of the South Island,
to Wellington, and from Palmerston North to Napier, on the North Island. It was
late fall in the southern hemisphere, and cold--on the South Island, temperatures
rarely rose above fifty degrees. It also got dark early, about 5:30 pm, since
New Zealand is so far south. I took a "city bike" with fatter tires this
time, and these are slower, so I had to use daylight efficiently to get in the
miles I needed to cover.
There were no language barriers in New Zealand, of course, but it is still a
very different culture. The most difficult part, they all drive on the left :)
Trip 10: This was my trip around the Big Island of Hawai'i, July 2008.
I took ten days, and travelled about 250 miles in a giant loop beginning, and
ending, in Hilo. You are basically circumnavigating a set of giant volcanoes,
navigating between beach and desert, sea level and the clouds, resort towns and
rural villages. The windward (NE) section of the island is lush rain forest; the
leeward (SW) desolate lava fields bordering on fantastic beaches. Connecting
the two, on the east of the island, is the active volcano Kiluaea, which you
climb up (for twenty miles) and down.
That last trip made it all fifty states, and I have been on back roads in every one.
I am now retiring from solo touring--I am going to do shorter trips, a week or
a little more, with my children and (hopefully, down the line) grandchildren, not
on the "every four years" schedule, in less exotic locales.
Trip 11: This trip went from Boise, Idaho, to Boudler,
Colorado, 1000 miles over 23 days in July and August of 2012. Leaving Boise on an uncommonly windy way, I
segued across hot, dry, sagebrush-laden southern Idaho, stopping for a day at
Craters of the Moon National Monument, where ancient lava is everywhere. I then worked
my way through the southeastern corner of Idaho, northwestern corner of Utah, and
southwestern corner of Wyoming, working my way through the remote and beautiful
Uintah Mountains. One time in Wyoming, a pronghorn antelope raced me along a fence
for several hundred yards before darting off.
From Vernal, UT, I then headed east more or less all the way to Boulder, a lot of
high scrub in western Colorado, giving way to mountains as you get toward the middle
of the state. I stopped in Dinosaur National Monument and Steamboat Springs for a day
each, and ended up at the south entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park at the appointed
time. The plan was for my family, which was driving up to the park, to pick me up and carry
me across the continental divide, but they were running a day late. So on my last day I crossed
the divide, at 12,300 ft., and had a *very fast* downhill more or less all the way to Boulder!
It was a remote and rigorous trip, but the rugged scenery and light traffic made it especially pleasant.
I learned a lot about Mormonism, which is prevalent in the parts of Idaho, Utah, and Wyoming that I went
through, and being in high scrub and high desert and lonely small towns in the far West. Mid-summer is fair
season up there, and I visited fairs in Idaho and Utah on both weekends en route, which was also a lot of fun.
Trip 12: This trip, from Baltimore to Burlington, Vermont, took 11 days, covered 550 miles, as part of a
working vacation in June, 2016. I flew into Baltimore and immediately headed towards Philadelphia, almost becoming derailed by a
major problem with my freewheel right off the bat. I managed to keep going on the freewheel until I finally made it
to a bike shop near Philadelphia, and got it fixed. Then, in Philadelphia, I attended a professional conference (!)
for three days before heading out again to the northeast.
From there I travelled along the towpaths bordering an old canal along the Delaware River; in the 1800s, mules would
tow rafts laden with goods along these paths. I then worked my way through northwestern New Jersey--very rural--and
comfortably around New York City to Poughkeepsie, where I crossed the Hudson River on a giant pedestrian bridge. Working
my way to the eastern edge of New York State, I headed more or less directly north until I arrived in Burlington, where
I camped for a week and worked on the book I was writing.
Bicycling in the northeast is a very different kind of biking: much more traffic, narrow shoulders, poorer roads, towns
at more frequent intervals. It is more convenient, in the sense that you are rarely far from food or services, but also
not nearly as peaceful. I have done so many bicycle trips in the West and Midwest because the South and Northeast just
are not as conducive to bike travel. Still, having done this trip, I have travelled through all major regions of the
country, which was definitely worth doing.